The territory that straddles the border of Arizona and Utah near Page, Arizona is known for its otherworldly beauty. Some landmarks are famous throughout the world; others are less well-known, yet still worthy of a visit. Page, once a housing camp for workers who constructed the Glen Canyon Dam, is now a town that welcomes millions of tourists each year.
Antelope Canyon, one of the most dramatic and well-known slot canyons in America, is situated on Navajo land about six miles east of Page. It was named after the herds of pronghorn antelope that once frequented the area. Today, instead of antelope, there are herds of people. Most estimates agree that somewhere around four million people visit Antelope Canyon each year.
There is no public access to Antelope Canyon; all visitors must reserve spots through one of several tour companies authorized by the Navajo Nation. The tours are pricey, but give visitors peace of mind. Storms originating miles upstream from Antelope Canyon have been known to produce deadly flash flooding inside the slot canyon; therefore, Navajo Nation Parks personnel watch the weather closely—in the immediate vicinity of the canyon and throughout the watershed area—and close Antelope Canyon when storms threaten. In addition, tour guides ferry visitors from the main roadway across several miles of sandy road that is accessible only by four-wheel-drive vehicles.
Antelope Canyon is actually two strikingly similar canyons, Upper Antelope Canyon and Lower Antelope Canyon, which are in the same immediate area. They do not connect, and separate tours must be booked for each of the sister canyons. Some people visit both.
The Navajo name for Upper Antelope Canyon is “Tse’bighanilini,” which means “the place where water runs through rocks.” The entrance looks simply like a crack in a rock wall, which may be how it got its nickname “The Crack.” Once inside, however, there is nothing ordinary about Upper Antelope Canyon. Swirling sandstone extends about 120 feet above the streambed. When my husband and I visited Upper Antelope Canyon, we were awestruck as we meandered between the narrow canyon walls. We weren’t able to see the canyon’s iconic light beams, which shine through the canyon to the streambed during the months of May through September between about 11 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. on sunny days; however, it was still an unforgettable experience.
The Navajo name for Lower Antelope Canyon is “Hasdssez’ twazi,” which means “the spiral role arches.” Of the two sister canyons, Lower Antelope Canyon, sometimes called “the Corkscrew,” is deemed to be a more difficult hike, requiring visitors to traverse steps and ladders. In contrast to Upper Antelope Canyon, which is narrower at the top, Lower Antelope Canyon is wider at the top than at the streambed, and at 1,335 feet long, it is about twice the length of Upper Antelope Canyon.
Unlike the state of Arizona, the Navajo Nation observes Daylight Saving Time; however, to avoid confusion, Antelope Canyon tours operate on Mountain Standard Time all year. When we visited Antelope Canyon, we were accustomed to Central Daylight Time, so we found it advantageous to book an early morning tour. We were rewarded with relatively cool weather and a small tour group.
Less than five miles south of downtown Page, the Colorado River makes a pronounced U-turn known as Horseshoe Bend. It’s what my husband calls a “one-trick pony,” but it is quite a trick. More than two million people visit Horseshoe Bend each year to view this natural phenomenon.
Getting to Horseshoe Bend requires a 1.5-mile round-trip hike on an improved trail that is accessible to wheelchairs, strollers, and leashed dogs; however, there is minimal shade and a 137-foot change in elevation. In 2018, a fenced overlook was added to improve safety, but according to the National Park Service, “much of the rim remains exposed to the 1,000-foot drop.” Be careful!
Horseshoe Bend is in the Glen Canyon National Recreation area; however, the parking lot is within the city limits of Page, and national park passes are not accepted. There is a $10 parking fee, and cash may be requested on busy weekends and holidays.
The 280,000-acre Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, under the care of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), is west of Page. Among the scenic areas in this unspoiled wilderness are the Vermilion Cliffs, Paria Canyon, and Coyote Buttes. According to the BLM, “Coyote Buttes North is just a small part of the 112,500-acre Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, but has some of the most visually striking geologic sandstone formations in the world, including The Wave.”
The Wave, a massive series of swirly striations in sandstone, has become a hiking destination of immense popularity. Due to incredible demand and the fragile landscape, the BLM now restricts access through a strict lottery system. People who live in the immediate vicinity have a separate lottery, which allows up to 16 hikers each day; the “advance lottery,” for those outside the local area, selects up to 12 groups or up to 48 people each day, whichever comes first. (Each permit covers up to six people.) Competition is stiff. According to some estimates, more than 300,000 people entered the lottery to hike to The Wave in 2023, and many people enter month after month, despite the non-refundable $6 fee for each entry. Entering the lottery, however, is a must: hiking without a permit is punishable by a staggering fine and even imprisonment.
In April 2025, our younger son entered the lottery for the first time and—in a stunning reversal of expectations—won a permit for four. I had been dreaming of hiking to The Wave for years, so as soon as I stopped squealing, I devised a four-month plan to get in shape for the challenging 6.4-mile hike.
As it turned out, preparation for a high-altitude hike with significant changes in elevation was only part of the equation. The BLM does not reschedule permits for any reason, including weather, and the eight-mile, minimally maintained dirt road to the trailhead is impassable when wet. (Interestingly, the trailhead is in Utah, but The Wave itself is in Arizona.) Our permit was for August 29, toward the end of monsoon season. We nearly got rained out, which would have been enormously disappointing after anticipating the hike for four months and traveling 1,200 miles to get there.
We were among the most fortunate. We made it to the trailhead after a white-knuckled drive and were blessed with a glorious hike through areas of unparalleled beauty. The Wave is not a one-trick pony. Even before we reached The Wave, we saw what I called “pre-Wave swirls.” Beyond, there was more striated sandstone, including the Second Wave, a smaller wave-like formation. The hike was tough, sometimes necessitating multiple points of contact in rocky areas, and we had to navigate without benefit of a trail; however, the unimaginably vibrant, multi-color striations in the sandstone made it all worthwhile. We even saw six bighorn sheep, which was an unexpected bonus. We were grateful for the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to hike to The Wave. (To enter the lottery, visit recreation.gov.)
There are many other noteworthy destinations near Page. Lake Powell, extending 185 miles, well into Utah, is one of the largest man-made lakes in North America. In addition, the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, managed by the BLM, begins just north of Page in Utah. It includes nearly 1.9 million acres of cliffs, canyons, plateaus, colorful rock formations and arches. It is named for the Escalante River and for the staircase-like increases in elevation between Lake Powell and Bryce Canyon National Park. There are many hiking opportunities in this scenic wilderness. While in the area, it’s tempting to visit one or more of Utah’s five national parks, but that’s another story for another day.
