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Charleston, South Carolina

Postcards — Thu, 29 Feb 2024 15:45:23 +0000

Postcards
February 29, 2024
Postcards

A Timeless Tapestry of History, Cuisine, and Charm

Charleston, South Carolina, nestled along the Atlantic coastline, beckons travelers with its timeless charm, rich history, and culinary delights. A city steeped in Southern elegance, Charleston offers a tapestry of experiences that captivate the senses. On a recent visit to see friends in the Columbia area, we set aside a couple of days to swing down to Charleston to explore the top sights, culinary treasures, and must-do activities that make Charleston a destination like no other.

Historic Marvels: A Stroll Through Time

Charleston’s historic district, a living museum of cobblestone streets and antebellum architecture, is a testament to the city’s rich past. The iconic Battery promenade along the seawall is adorned with majestic mansions and provides a picturesque journey through time. Visitors can lose themselves in the stories whispered by Rainbow Row, a row of pastel-colored Georgian homes that seem to blush under the Southern sun. Each house told a story of resilience and revival, standing as vibrant witnesses while they reflected the city’s diverse history.

We embarked on a narrated horse-drawn carriage ride down the narrow streets through the historic district, and as we rumbled past homes where renowned historic figures were known to visit, the past seemed to whisper through the moss-draped oaks. It took us back to a much different world–with an infinitely slower pace.

To delve even deeper into the city’s history, you can also explore the historic plantations along the Ashley River. Magnolia Plantation, with its romantic gardens, and Boone Hall Plantation, featuring the iconic Avenue of Oaks, offer an immersive experience into the region’s antebellum heritage. They are known to transport visitors to an era of Southern gentility. Since our time was limited, we chose to see those during our next visit.

While historic homes may immediately come to mind when thinking of Charleston, historic vessels may not. However, a trip to Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum allows visitors to explore the USS Yorktown. An American Heroine from WWII to Vietnam, the ship was the tenth aircraft carrier to serve in the United States Navy. Commissioned on April 15, 1943, World War II’s famous “Fighting Lady” would participate significantly in the Pacific offensive that began in late 1943 and ended with the defeat of Japan in 1945. She received the Presidential Unit Citation and earned 11 battle stars for service in World War II and would later earn 5 battle stars for service off Vietnam. The ship also recovered the Apollo 8 astronauts and capsule in December 1968. Decommissioned in 1970 and placed in reserve, Yorktown was towed from Bayonne, NJ to Charleston in 1975 to become the centerpiece of Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum. Berthed beside the carrier is the destroyer USS Laffey, whose size may pale next to the mammoth Yorktown, but whose story does not. She earned the nickname “The Ship That Would Not Die” for her exploits during the D-Day invasion and the Battle of Okinawa, when she withstood a determined assault by conventional bombers and the most unrelenting kamikaze air attack in history. Laffey survived despite being badly damaged by four bombs, six kamikaze crashes, and strafing fire that killed 32 and wounded 71.

Culinary Odyssey: Savoring the Flavors of the Lowcountry

Charleston is a culinary haven, where every bite tells a story of tradition and innovation. The city’s vibrant food scene ranges from classic Southern comfort food to inventive, modern cuisine. Indulge in the quintessential flavors of the Lowcountry with dishes like shrimp and grits, she-crab soup, and fried green tomatoes.

Charleston’s historic market, a bustling hub of activity, is a sensory delight inviting you to meander through its stalls. Sample local delicacies, pick up handmade crafts, and marvel at the craftsmanship of sweetgrass baskets, a traditional art form passed down through generations. From these baskets to handmade crafts, the market is a treasure trove of Southern craftsmanship and goodies.

If you know us, you know we love to explore truly local restaurants, and Charleston did not disappoint. Each restaurant has its own unique flair, and with only a couple of days, we opted for a “tried and true,” a “new,” and a “sounds different!” They were all delicious. Our first stop was the iconic Hymans. A “tried and true” for me, but a first time visit for Wes. Serving hungry diners since 1890, Hymans has been named #15 on TasteAtlas’ List of the 150 Most Legendary Restaurants in the World for their dish of Shrimp and Grits.

Since we love seafood, and Charleston sits right on the Atlantic, we took in the “new” while visiting the historic district. After some exploration, we grabbed a booth at the Amen Street Fish and Raw Bar and were treated to the best shrimp platters we have experienced in a long time. The ambiance and options of both indoor and outdoor dining were enjoyable, as was the incredible selection of market fresh fish. Amen Street proudly supports Charleston’s local fishing industry with fresh fish, and a daily changing menu which includes a variety of seafood dishes as well as a Raw Bar featuring a comprehensive oyster selection of more than 20 varieties from local suppliers and respected sources along East Coast.

Before leaving the historic district, we made the obligatory stop to pick up pralines. Whether your first choice is Savannah’s Candy Kitchen or Savannah Sweets, don’t let the name fool you. Those pralines are a favorite in the Lowcountry whether you are in Georgia or South Carolina.

Grits is a staple of Lowcountry cuisine and when we got ready to experience the “sounds different,” I told Wes he could choose. That is how we ended up experiencing The Grit Counter. Self-described as “nothing more Southern than a bowl of grits – and nothing more fun than a Grit Bowl,” we were amazed by the options on the menu along with a “Build Your Own Bowl” experience where you select your meat, your grit flavor, two fixin’s, and sauce. Wes selected The Harvest Bowl which consisted of grilled chicken, carrot cake grits, smoked gouda mornay sauce, roasted corn, fried hominy, and dried cranberries. I kid you not. He liked it. I was glad he did (and glad I did not order it). I opted for the Hot Chicken Sandwich and sweet potato fries. If you visit, be sure to top off your meal with the “Banana Pudding” Sweet Corn Soft Serve Ice Cream. Sounds weird, but was weirdly delicious!

From the refined to the lively buzz of a diner counter, the city’s dining establishments offer a diverse array of culinary delights.

Artistic Treasures: The Cultural Heartbeat

Charleston’s artistic soul is showcased in its museums and galleries. The Gibbes Museum of Art, an architectural gem in itself, features a collection that spans centuries and genres. From classical Southern portraiture to contemporary Lowcountry masterpieces, the museum is a testament to Charleston’s rich artistic heritage featuring more than 10,000 American works.

The city’s commitment to the arts extends beyond museums. The Gaillard Center is a state-of-the-art performing arts center in downtown Charleston that produces, commissions, and presents year-round music, dance, comedy, theater, and family performances and programs. You may opt to take a stroll through the French Quarter Art Walk, where galleries open their doors to showcase the talents of local and international artists. The vibrant arts scene adds a dynamic layer to Charleston’s cultural landscape.

Southern Hospitality: A Warm Welcome

What truly sets Charleston apart is the genuine warmth of its people. Locals welcome visitors with open arms, sharing stories and recommendations that add a personal touch to the experience. From the knowledgeable guides leading historic tours to the friendly faces in the market stalls, Charleston’s hospitality is as much a part of the journey as its historic landmarks and culinary delights.

In Charleston, time seems to slow down as visitors are transported to an era where Southern grace and charm makes one feel like a welcomed guest in a grand Southern home. With its historic marvels, culinary treasures, artistic gems, outdoor adventures, and welcoming atmosphere, Charleston invites travelers to become part of its story—a story that unfolds with every step through its charming streets and every savory bite of its delectable cuisine.

The enchanting city of Charleston, South Carolina beckons with its historic charm, cobblestone streets, and antebellum elegance. We will remain drawn to this Southern gem, a destination where past and present embrace each other and dance together in harmony.

For more information, visit charleston.com or charlestoncvb.com.

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Lake Charles, Louisiana … Beyond the Casinos

Linda W. Perkins — Tue, 30 Jan 2024 15:22:19 +0000

Postcards
January 30, 2024
Postcards

Take a drive one weekend to grab yourself a little piece of paradise…

Sparkling towers reflecting off a glistening lake below. The chance to win cash and prizes. Pristine golf courses. Upscale restaurants and luxurious pools. Star-studded shows. The casinos in Lake Charles seem to have it all, or so it seems, because they draw thousands of tourists from East Texas to the bayou state each year. But there is so much more to this mid-sized city just two-and-a-half hours east of Houston.

For 10 years, I have been married to a Lake Charles native, which means I have probably visited Lake Charles close to 50 times. And yet, in all that time, I have never set foot in a casino. The truth is, most of our visits have been spent at my in-laws’ home, but even when we have decided to get out of the house, the casinos have not come to top of mind. Those are for the tourists, I tend to think. You know how it is: the locals know all the best places.

Of course, the other activities in Lake Charles are hardly a secret. They are usually listed in the convention and visitor’s information. Yet, they are often overlooked. If you’re an outdoorsperson, a foodie, or an explorer looking for a taste of Cajun culture–pay attention. You might need to take a drive one weekend to grab yourself a little piece of paradise.

Get Ready to Get Your Cajun On

Most people think you have to go all the way to Lafayette or New Orleans to catch a Cajun vibe, but that would be far from the truth. Lake Charles has a rich history and celebrates it with events like the Contraband Days Pirate Festival, the Cajun Music & Food Festival, and a family-friendly Mardi Gras celebration. There are several festivals each month that include authentic Cajun Cooking or Cajun/Zydeco music.

If you want to explore the culture of Southwest Louisiana on your own, stop at Creole Nature Trail Adventure Point in Sulphur, just west of Lake Charles off I-10. This visitor center has free, hands-on displays and activities for both kids and adults alike. During our visit there, my family had the most fun “playing along” with a Cajun and Zydeco band. You can learn how and where to spot alligators and migrating birds, learn about other native Louisiana wildlife, and get maps so you can create your own tour of the Creole Nature Trail and other regional attractions.

At the Creole Nature Trail, you can pick up a guide to the Boudin Trail, where you will learn locations to go for the best boudin – a tasty Cajun sausage filled with rice, meat and spices – many of which are located in Lake Charles. To try lots of varieties of boudin from around Louisiana in one place, drive an hour east to Scott, which hosts the annual Boudin Festival each April. In addition to Boudin and other Cajun treats, the festival features arts and crafts vendors from around the region as well as live entertainment.

Two well-established Lake Charles restaurants that are popular with locals and visitors alike, for fresh seafood and traditional Louisiana fare, are Steamboat Bills on the Lake and Pats of Henderson. While Pats offers an upscale dining experience with a full bar in a crisp white plantation-style building, Steamboat Bills is as downhome as you can get, with orders placed at the counter and food served on red-checked tablecloth laden tables.

The Epitome of a Sportsman’s Paradise

If you haven’t already heard, Louisiana is often called the sportsman’s paradise, and for good reason. Hunting and fishing are two of the biggest pastimes in the bayou state, and there are many outdoor activities to enjoy in Southwest Louisiana. The Calcasieu River flows into Lake Charles, past the port and into Prien Lake, and ultimately down through Calcasieu Lake into the Gulf of Mexico. Each of these bodies of water, along with bayous in and around Lake Charles, offer opportunities for water skiing, fishing, and kayaking.

Google “hunting lodges near Lake Charles” and you will find numerous lodges that lease open land and organize hunts for deer hunting and duck hunting. There are even guided excursions where you can hunt for alligators in the swamps.

If you want to get outdoors, but the backcountry isn’t your thing, no worries. There are several acclaimed golf courses in the area (beyond the ones at the casinos) that are open to the public, and Lake Charles even has a lakefront beach! It’s a great place to go to catch some rays during the summer and is set up with sand volleyball courts and shaved ice stands.

Tours, Museums and More

History buffs and art lovers have a lot to enjoy in Lake Charles. The city is home to multiple museums, including the Imperial Calcasieu Museum, which showcases the history, culture, and art of southwest Louisiana all the way back to the Attakapas and other Native American tribal life; the Mardi Gras Museum of Imperial Calcasieu, which boasts the largest collection of Mardi Gras costumes in the world; and the Dequincy Railroad Museum just 30 minutes north of downdown Lake Charles. The 1911 Historic City Hall Arts & Cultural Center has three stories of traveling art exhibits plus two permanent galleries, including the Black Heritage Gallery.

Each spring, Lake Charles hosts a jazz festival and art walk; then in the fall, visitors can enjoy the Lake Charles Film & Music Festival and Artfest/Culture Fest Louisiana. Visiting rodeo lovers can enjoy the Southwest District Livestock Show and Rodeo in late January, and the Iowa Rabbit Festival is held each March.

Just a short 20-minute drive east of Lake Charles, Bayou Rum and Distillery in Lacassine offers tours and tastings Tuesday through Saturday. There, visitors can learn how rum is made from locally grown sugar cane and molasses and try the multiple varieties Bayou Rum makes. If beer is more your taste, check out Crying Eagle Brewing Company, which offers tours of its 10,000 square-foot brewing facility, plus a tap room and outdoor beer garden for visitors to enjoy.

Other tours in the area include haunted history and ghost tours, horse and carriage city tours, and swamp tours. Lake Area Adventures offers guided boat and kayaking tours, as well as kayak rentals for individuals wanting to explore Lake Charles’ waterways on their own.

Whether you’re looking to add to a casino trip or just wanting a weekend away amid a backdrop of Cajun culture, Lake Charles has plenty to see and do to make it a worthwhile visit within an easy drive from anywhere in southeast Texas.

For more information, go to visitlakecharles.org.

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Glacier National Park

Postcards — Tue, 28 Feb 2023 19:12:28 +0000

Majestic.
Awe-inspiring.
Magnificent.
Grand.
Stunning.
Imposing.
Lofty.
Monumental.

These are just a few descriptive words that come to mind after seeing this beautiful American treasure in person. Seeing Glacier National Park has long been on my bucket list. As reports of shrinking glaciers due to climate change and western wildfires increased, so did my desire to see it for myself. In 1850, there were 150 active glaciers in the area comprising the park; as of 2015, the park service reported there were about 26 large enough to still be considered active glaciers. A glacier is a slowly moving mass or river of ice formed by the accumulation and compaction of snow on mountains or near the poles. What makes a glacier active is that it is still acquiring snow and moving.

My husband Wes and I set out on a driving trip last summer with three purposes in mind: 1) escape the Texas heat; 2) visit the remaining five states of the U.S. to complete my bucket list item of visiting all 50; and 3) see Glacier National Park while we could.

GNP was established as a National Park in 1910. It is a land of mountain ranges carved by prehistoric ice rivers. Along with the glaciers, it features alpine meadows, deep forests, waterfalls, and about 200 sparkling lakes. Called the “Crown of the Continent” and located in northwest Montana, the park is one of the northernmost national parks in the United States. If you choose to drive, you can plan for around 23-25 hours, but be sure to check schedules and roads–because many are closed from September to May.

After spending the night in Great Falls, Montana, we headed northwest toward the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. Driving across the plains, you begin to see the snowcapped peaks in the distance. I am unsure how many miles we traveled as the mountains loomed larger and larger, with me thinking we would arrive “any minute now.” While driving, we did agree that “Big Sky Country” is appropriately named, but we are still trying to figure out why the sky seems so much wider and closer than in Texas, even west Texas.

We made a brief stop in East Glacier Park Village at the World Famous Whistle Stop Restaurant for lunch and were introduced to their award-winning huckleberry pie. Our entire travel plan consisted of “GO and SEE,” so we were a little unprepared as to what to expect and how best to see and enter the park. As a meticulous planner, this “fly by the seat of your pants” trip was a little out of my comfort zone, and as with most things, there were good and bad aspects to that plan. It was fun to have no set schedule, but we did miss out on a few things that required reservations or better planning. (Next time, I’ll let my meticulous side rule.)

From East Glacier Village, we headed north along the shores of Lower Lake Mary up to Many Glacier, located in an area described the “Switzerland of North America.” This was one of our favorites stops and was home to the Many Glacier Hotel. The hotel was built by the Great Northern Railway in 1914-15 and is beautifully situated on the shores of Swiftcurrent Lake inside Glacier National Park. Standing over the bridge, where water flowing from the lake forms rapids as it travels down one of the many creeks, was mesmerizing. I could have stayed there for hours listening to the water and enjoying the beauty around me.

Our plan was to cross the park via the Going-to-the-Sun Road, but even though it was early July, the road was still closed at Logan Pass (a 6,646-foot-high place where you cross the Continental Divide) due to late snowfall and avalanche danger. We had been told the vistas seen from the Going-to-the-Sun Road are breathtaking and a photographer’s paradise. Alas, that will have to be saved for the next trip. We were able to go far enough on the road to get to the Jackson Glacier overlook, which was awesome. The Going-to-the-Sun Road is a winding road that provides many pullouts for sightseeing and photographic opportunities. An engineering feat and National Historic Landmark, the Going-to-the-Sun Road was completed in 1932 after 11 years of construction. It is considered to be one of the most scenic roads in North America.

One thing you should keep in mind is that, effective this year, vehicle reservations are required for four areas of the park: Going-to-the-Sun Road, the North Fork, Two Medicine, and Many Glacier. Each location has unique details and requires a separate reservation. Vehicle reservations are available in advance online at Recreation.gov, the Recreation.gov app, or the Recreation.gov Call Center (Reservation Line: 877-444-6777). They are not available for purchase at the park.

Traveling around the south end of the park (instead of through it) took much longer, but we enjoyed some unexpected sights as we crossed the Continental Divide, which included the Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Monument. Resembling the Washington Monument, the memorial is a 60-foot-tall granite obelisk constructed in 1931. There was also a memorial statue to John F. Stevens, who was tasked with locating a suitable pass for the Great Northern Railroad to use across the Divide. Of course, since my maiden name is Stevens, I told Wes he must have been an ancestor of mine!

We spent the next couple of days on the western side of the park, enjoying the towns of Whitefish and Kalispel, as well as the Lake McDonald area of the park. All in all, we actually ended up enjoying the east side of the park the most, and had the Going-to-the-Sun Road been open (and we had a reservation), we might have gone back to spend more time there. Seeing wildlife was a perk of the entire experience, but one of our favorites will always be the amazing moment two bears chose to cross the road right in front of us – and we were well out of the park.

One thing that was a surprise to us is that relatively few miles of road exist in the park’s 1,600 square miles of picturesque landscape, thus preserving its primitive and unspoiled beauty. You can certainly see a lot by car, but while Going-to-the-Sun Road may be the quickest way to see Glacier National Park, there are numerous hiking trails throughout the park, providing exclusive views that can only be seen by foot. The hiking choices are numerous; the trail can be determined by difficulty, length, or landmark. There are several trailheads that can be found off the Going-to-the-Sun Road, or you can take a boat to get to more secluded trailheads.

Here are a few helpful things to remember if you are planning to visit:

There are no fueling stations within Glacier’s boundaries.
Parking is limited. During summer, parking lots often fill by early morning.
During extreme congestion, access to whole areas may be temporarily restricted to allow for emergency vehicles.
Glacier’s entries and roads all have specific restrictions and season lengths. Please plan accordingly.
There are specific vehicle size limits, so be sure your vehicle can enter the park.
A passport is required for all international border crossings.

Travel times to consider when planning your trip:

St. Mary to Many Glacier Valley: 20 miles, 40 minutes
St. Mary to Two Medicine Valley: 34 miles, 1 hour
St. Mary to Waterton Lakes National Park (Canada): 50 miles, 1 hour (plus Customs delays)
West Glacier to East Glacier Park: 56 miles, 1 hour
West Glacier to St. Mary (Going-to-the-Sun Road): 50 miles, 2 hours
West Glacier to St. Mary (US Hwy 2 to Hwy 89): 90 miles, 2 hours
West Glacier to Many Glacier: 70 miles, 2½ hours
West Glacier to Polebridge: 28 miles, 1 hour

Glaciers store about 70% of the world’s freshwater. They regulate stream temperatures and maintain stream flow during late summer and drought periods when other sources are depleted. Without glacial meltwater, summer water temperatures will increase and may stress temperature sensitive species, such as aquatic insects and native trout.

The United States Geological Survey (USGS) started the Repeat Photography Project in 1997 with a systematic search of Glacier’s archives for historic photographs of glaciers in the park. Historically and today, photographing the glaciers can only occur in a narrow window in late August and early September, after the previous winter’s snow has melted from the ice and before the first snows of autumn. It is only in the late summer season that the glaciers can be clearly seen. We are sharing some of those photos here, but you can see more at www.nps.gov/glac.

Some researchers believe there will not be any glaciers remaining in Glacier National Park by as early as 2030. Plan your trip to Glacier while you can, before the glaciers are gone. I am glad we did.

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Ohio… So?

Postcards — Mon, 02 Jan 2023 15:22:37 +0000

Although geographically closer to the northeast, Ohio is the easternmost state of the U.S. region known as the Midwest. I visited Ohio decades ago when I worked with newspapers around the country. The experience did not top my favorites list. Maybe it was the time of year, or the newspaper staff, or the location, but whatever it was, I left there thinking I should give their state travel board the new slogan I had coined for them: “Ohio. So?” That was until a few months ago.

Wes and I had planned a long weekend trip down to Biloxi, Mississippi to see comedian Bill Engvall perform on his final tour. A family wedding required us to change that to another date/location, so we chose somewhere we had never visited–Lorain, Ohio. I was excited about giving Ohio another try, and even more excited about visiting the Amish community of Holmes County. Our friends Gregg and Nancy Jolly decided to join in, and we had a fabulous time.

Because we only had a long weekend, we flew into Cleveland, rented a vehicle, and made the 30-mile drive west to the town of Lorain where we were staying. Lorain is located on the beautiful shore of Lake Erie. It is known as “The International City,” because it is home to more than 70 different nationalities. Lorain is also sometimes referred to as “Steel City” because of its well-known steel mill, but I will always remember it as the home of the historic Lorain Palace Theatre. The Palace was the venue where Engvall performed, and we loved seeing this antique gem. Opened in 1928, the Palace was the first motion picture theater in Ohio to show a talking motion picture. It also still has its original Wurlitzer theatre organ, one of four remaining in Ohio.

Two hours south of Lorain is Holmes County, Ohio, home to one of the largest Amish communities in the United States. Making up approximately half the population of Holmes County, an estimated 38,000 children and adults make this the highest concentration of Amish in any U.S. county and second in the world–only the Lancaster County settlement in Pennsylvania (spanning multiple counties) has more.

About halfway to our destination, we drove through Chatham Township. A community of about 2,400, Chatham is home to the Chatham General Store, founded in 1854. We passed by, and because I was driving, we turned around to check out this historic gem. The building actually dates back to 1834 but has been a general store since 1854. Signs on the porch for maple syrup and hunting gear evidenced this was an authentic general store. Stepping onto the original, worn wood floors was like taking a step back in time. From the vintage 1869 cash register to the local goods room featuring honey, soaps, artwork, and more, the store offers almost anything and everything. We followed the smell of fresh coffee and baked goods to a front counter where we all found a little something for a snack. My selection was a couple of chocolate dipped graham crackers, but the mistake I made was not tasting them until we were in the car. Oh my! They were the best I had ever had!

The Holmes County Amish communities are Millersburg (the largest), Walnut Creek, Berlin, Charm, and Sugarcreek. We decided to spend the day in Berlin (pronounced Ber’lin), and as we made our way down the back roads, we took in the beautiful countryside and meandered our way past farm after farm. Since Gregg is a retired agriculture teacher, he was in his element and able to answer some of the questions we had as we passed.

When we arrived in Berlin, population 1,447 in the 2020 census, we drove around the little community to get an overview. We saw streets lined with craft stores, gift shops, antique malls, flea markets, theaters, bakeries, fabric stores, ice cream parlors, vintage clothing stores, and knew we were in for a fun day. After getting the “lay of the land,” we decided it was time for lunch and headed to the Der Dutchman Restaurant a few miles down the road in Walnut Creek. Situated on top of a hill overlooking the valley and beautiful farms, this alone was worth the trip. Known for their Amish Farm chicken, “always real” mashed potatoes, fresh salad bar and buffet, not to mention desserts, this restaurant is a favorite among tourists and locals alike. We stopped in at the bakery next door to pick up a few souvenirs to take home…namely their Amish Peanut Butter spread, which is a delectable concoction of peanut butter and marshmallow crème. Gregg is now addicted to their blueberry cream cheese fried pies and is currently in “talks” with them regarding shipments to Texas. A couple of other unique food places we discovered were Coblentz Chocolate Company (they DO ship to Texas), and The Cracklin’ Pig. Coblentz, a family-owned and operated business founded 35 years ago, makes delectable handmade chocolate confections.

The highlight of the trip was our visit to the Amish & Mennonite Heritage Center. The Center is the home to Behalt, a 10-foot-high by 265-foot-long oil on canvas circular mural painting illustrating the heritage of the Amish and Mennonite people. The mural and the presentation that goes along with it highlight the history of the Anabaptist people from their beginnings in Zurich, Switzerland, to the present day. Behalt means “to keep” or “remember.” The mural is an inexpensive, but incredibly creative history lesson of the culture. It was an amazing work of art as well as a sobering reminder of the persecutions some have endured for their faith. The Center also houses a museum, which is free of charge. Featuring Amish apparel, artifacts, exhibits and rare books, the museum addresses and answers some of the most commonly asked questions about the Amish and Mennonite way of life. Unfortunately, the Center was closing before we were able to see everything. Maybe on the next trip we will get a chance to explore the One-Room School and Pioneer Barn!

One of the most interesting things I picked up at the Amish & Mennonite Heritage Center was a newspaper called The Diary of the Old Order Churches. I didn’t know exactly what it was, but, probably because of my work, I tend to pick up any free publications around. This publication is a contribution of work from Old Order church members all over the United States. The goal of the publication is to “collect and preserve the historical virtues of the church.” In its pages are listings of births, marriages, obituaries, and news of the individual church districts. There are also some puzzles and poems submitted by readers (see this month’s Creative Corner for a poem from The Diary). In spite of the fact this is a black and white publication with no photos and LOTS of words, I finally realized why I was so fascinated by it. It is a publication that shares community much like we do at Postcards. While our community is closely geographic, their community is spread across the U.S., but because of this publication, I understood it a little better.

As we left our day in Berlin, I reflected on the range of sights we had seen. From the simplicity and solitude of farmhouses in Holmes County to the vibrant city of Cleveland–home to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, Progressive Field, and First Energy Field where major league baseball and NFL football teams play, Ohio offers much more than I first experienced. I would look forward to the next trip…but only after another stop at the Chatham General Store. Those chocolate graham crackers are calling our name.

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Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks

Ruth Fields — Tue, 01 Nov 2022 13:44:49 +0000

When the rising sun ignites the sheer walls of Zion Canyon, which soar up to 4,000 feet above the Virgin River, it’s easy to see why so many people are drawn to Zion National Park. Approximately five million visited the park in 2021, making it the second most-visited national park in America. People come from all over the world to view the park’s breathtaking beauty. A National Park Service study revealed that international visitors make up 25 percent of the park’s attendance. English is one of many languages spoken at Zion National Park.

Getting there; getting around

The nearest major airport—Harry Reid International (formerly McCarran International) Airport in Las Vegas—is 170 miles from Zion National Park; Salt Lake City International Airport is 315 miles away. However, people are still willing to make the effort to visit Zion. The National Park Service study reported that about two-thirds of the area’s visitors listed Zion National Park as their primary reason for traveling to southern Utah.

It’s important to note that Zion, with 229 square miles within its boundaries, has been called the most crowded national park in America for its size, and there is a limited amount of parking inside the gates. When my husband Charlie and I visited in September 2022 to celebrate our 40^th anniversary, we discovered it was an advantage to have our body clocks operating on Texas time. By arriving at the park each day at 6:30 a.m. (which felt like 7:30 to us), we were able to snag parking spots inside the park and get started on our day’s activities before most of the crowds arrived. When we left, our parking spots were quickly snapped up.

Lodging opportunities abound in the surrounding area, both near the park’s main gate and in towns a few miles away. Those who are willing to pay a bit more for ultimate convenience may want to stay in Springdale, Utah, which is situated right by the main entrance. Shuttles take passengers from various stops in Springdale to the main gate, where they can pay the entrance fee, check out the Zion Visitor Center and pick up shuttles to stops along the park’s main scenic drive. Both the Springdale shuttles and the National Park Service’s shuttles within the park are provided to park visitors at no charge. Those staying in Springdale can leave their cars at their hotels; those staying outside Springdale pay for parking.

We soon learned to appreciate the shuttle buses inside the park. They operate continuously, and we never had to wait longer than five minutes for a bus to arrive. Since 2000, only shuttle buses are allowed on the main road, Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, from May through November. This reduces both traffic and vehicular noise in the canyon.

There are many opportunities to enjoy the grandeur of the canyon. Some people opt to ride shuttles and get off at stops along the way to enjoy the views. Others embark on hikes of varying length. Some trails are short, paved and wheelchair-accessible, while others are longer and have significant changes in elevation. Many trails allow hikers to see hidden pools, “hanging gardens” (plants growing on the canyon walls), waterfalls and an assortment of wildlife. We saw mule deer, turkeys, chipmunks and even a tarantula during our time in the park.

The paths not taken

The two most renowned hikes in the park are also the most challenging and the most dangerous, so we opted out. We saw many people of all ages, however, who could not resist the challenge. The Narrows, found at the end of a leisurely stroll along the banks of the Virgin River, begins where the canyon walls start to narrow as a result of a shift to more erosion-resistant stone. Adventurous hikers, many with rented water shoes and hiking poles, walk in the deepening river over slippery, uneven rocks to traverse The Narrows. In the area known as Wall Street, the canyon is only 20 to 30 feet wide, with sheer walls jutting 1,500 feet upward. Those who hike The Narrows report that it is an otherworldly experience.

A trip to the top of Angel’s Landing—a 5,790-foot tall, fin-like rock formation—is the most dangerous hike in the park, and is, in fact, one of the deadliest hikes in America. Since 2000, 13 people have reportedly plunged over the cliff to their deaths. I’m told that in places, the trail is no wider than a sidewalk, and there are no rails to stop people from falling off the cliffs; however, the National Park Service has installed sturdy chains along particularly precipitous parts of the trail. Crowds adversely affect safety, so beginning April 2022, visitors must obtain permits to hike to Angel’s Landing. Those who make it to the top must ascend 1,500 feet, but report a spectacular, 360-degree view.

To avoid crowds, Charlie and I decided to spend one of our days in the Kolob Canyons section of Zion National Park, which was no farther from our charming Airbnb cottage in Hurricane, Utah, than the main park. We were rewarded with stunning views of brick-red canyon walls and mountains in the distance. Although Zion Canyon is known for being more dramatic, we found Kolob Canyons to be a worthwhile side trip.

Bryce Canyon National Park

There are five national parks in Utah, often called The Mighty Five. Although Capitol Reef, Canyonlands and Arches national parks are farther east, Bryce Canyon National Park is only about a 90-minute drive from Zion. Many people, therefore, visit both parks while they’re in southern Utah. To get to Bryce Canyon, travelers go east on Highway 9 inside Zion National Park, taking a 1.1-mile tunnel that was blasted through the rock to provide a link between Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon national parks. When it was completed in 1930, it was the longest tunnel of its type in the U.S. For safety, RVs and other oversize vehicles pay a fee to go through the tunnel, and traffic then becomes temporarily one-way. Unfortunately, this adds time to the commute for all travelers.

Although geographically close, Bryce Canyon is geologically different from Zion Canyon, with thousands of hoodoos, formed by the erosion of larger rocks. Some reminded me of castles, while others look strangely human. At points overlooking Bryce Amphitheater, visitors can see how the Silent City got its name. It’s also apparent why Ebenezer Bryce, a rancher and owner of the eponymous canyon, once remarked, “Hell of a place to lose a cow.”

Charlie and I took the advice of our Lonely Planet guidebook and drove the entire length of Bryce Canyon’s main road and arrived at the south end, Rainbow Point (elevation 9,115) around lunchtime. There, we took in a seemingly endless view of the canyon floor, with mountains extending well into the distance. After a few photos and a picnic among beautiful bristlecone pine trees, we began the drive back. The guidebook was worth its purchase price for noting that all the scenic pullouts are on the right side of the road when traveling back toward the Bryce Canyon Visitor Center. We saw many of the same people at each stop! We were disappointed to discover a full parking lot near the flagship sites overlooking Bryce Amphitheater, but we drove the short distance back to the main gate, found a parking spot and loaded a shuttle. The shuttle buses go no farther into the park than the amphitheater, so we were glad we had driven to the more southern parts of Bryce Canyon National Park, including a spot overlooking the stunning Natural Bridge.

I confess that, before our trip, I underestimated these two magnificent national parks. However, both provided jaw-dropping views, agreeable weather, and scenic hikes. Visiting this spectacularly beautiful part of the country was an unforgettable experience. For more information, visit nps.gov/zion and nps.gov/brca.

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Ruidoso, New Mexico – A Summer Road Trip Worth Taking

Linda W. Perkins — Wed, 01 Jun 2022 14:58:11 +0000

Desperate to get out of the heat, Postcards writer Linda Perkins and her husband Ben set out last summer to explore cooler temps in the state next door. What they found was a gem worth the long drive, with enough facets to explore for future road trips to come.

Traveling northwest from the Piney Woods of Southeast Texas, in the middle of July, it is hard to imagine we could be headed into cooler weather. The humidity gradually turned to arid desert heat – hotter than where we had been–as green scenery began to turn brown.

Ah, the joy of driving through West Texas, where shrub brush and cacti give way to oil derricks pumping “black gold” out of the ground day and night. Giant windmills reach high into the sky, harnessing the wind of the high plains. Somewhere around Lubbock we began to see green again, thanks to expansive irrigation systems watering crops that a century earlier would not have been able to be grown out here.

From desert to wildflowers, and into the mountains

A paper map won’t tell you when you finally cross over into The Land of Enchantment, but the scenery will. I am not sure if it was humans or Mother Nature who planted miles and miles of yellow wildflowers, but it was a beautiful greeting as we entered the state of New Mexico and continued west. We were still over 150 miles away from our destination of Ruidoso, but that seemed miniscule compared to the more than 750 miles we had already driven.

A little over an hour from the Texas border, we stopped in Roswell, New Mexico. Known for being the home of the UFO Museum, there were signs and statues of “little green men” everywhere. They looked out–with big black eyes and their long, thin extremities reminiscent of ET’s pointy finger–reminding us all to “phone home.” Impatient to get into the mountains before the sun went down, we skipped the museum, but put it on a list of things to do the next time we are in the area.

Not very far from Roswell, we began to get a glimpse of things to come. Mountains appeared in the distance, their cool blue hue beckoning us to come closer. Before we knew it, we were enveloped in lush green hilltops and valleys, and the temperature was already starting to drop.

Horse racing, cafes, art galleries and ski slopes

As we drove into town, what immediately jumped out at us was just how much there was to do in the area. We quickly discovered when people say “Ruidoso,” they are really talking about the combined villages of Ruidoso Downs, Ruidoso, and Alto. The area also includes the Mescalero Apache Reservation, which covers over 460,000 acres of pristine land and is home to 4,000 Native Americans, Ski Apache, and Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino.

Driving in from the east, we were first greeted by the Ruidoso Downs Race Track & Casino. While it is not a fancy track, it’s a busy one, with multiple races each week during the summertime. It is known as the home of the All American Futurity, the richest race in Quarter Horse racing. Inside the track facilities, local vendors sell everything from Native American jewelry to metal Texas signs, a clear signal they are catering to tourists from the Lone Star State. Just across the street, not far from the Walmart parking lot, a farmer and his wife were selling Hatch chiles, which he roasted on-site.

Turning north, it wasn’t long before we arrived in “Midtown” Ruidoso, a quaint and bustling main street comprised primarily of restaurants and cafes, boutiques, art galleries, wineries and brewpubs. With wrought iron lamp posts, fresh flowers, and wine-barrel looking containers concealing the trash cans, it is easy to feel you’ve just found a little mountain paradise.

Our first stop, after checking into our Airbnb, was Sacred Grounds Coffee and Tea House. Billed as a cabin-like coffee shop, it exudes a mountain town atmosphere. The spacious deck overlooks a hillside creek, where it’s not uncommon to see deer and elk roaming by, and a large bar is tended by a certified mixologist whose creations have been featured in national magazines. At the front of a big room set up with tables and chairs for diners, a husband-and-wife country singing duo from Texas, The Hamiltons, entertained the crowd that had gathered to kick back and relax on this cool summer evening. The staff, some of the friendliest people we have ever met, are a mix of locals and transplants ready to share ideas on where to go hiking or to say why they love living here. It all feels like family, a little akin to what was depicted in the 1990’s TV show Northern Exposure.

Upon waking the next morning, we were reminded why it was worth the drive across Texas to get here. Walking out onto the porch, it was a scant 55 degrees. The high for the day was estimated to be around 73. We donned our sweaters and jackets and headed off to the mountains.

Treacherous drives and spectacular views, but not much water Knowing there were a couple of lakes in the area, we had brought our kayaks, hoping for some good paddling on our trip. Alas, we are used to kayaking Texas-size lakes, and when we arrived at Alto Lake, Ben described it as “mostly a glorified fishing pond” and not worth unloading our boats for. Later on our trip, we decided to check out Grindstone Lake, which is larger and crowded to capacity on weekends (we went on a weekday). Looking up at the mountains while paddling was nice, but it didn’t hold a candle to the hiking and other activities we enjoyed. The most beautiful water is at the Inn of the Mountain Gods, but their lake is only open for rentals Thursday through Sunday.

If the lakes around Ruidoso are small, the mountains are not. The drive up to Monjeau Lookout – a stone tower completed by the Civilian Conservation Corp in 1940 to serve as a fire lookout tower within Lincoln National Forest – is an adventure in itself. The 5.5-mile gravel road is narrow and steep, with no railing to keep a car from going over the edge.

With my fear of outdoor heights (and being in the passenger seat, the side next to the drop-off), I wasn’t sure if I would make it all the way to the lookout, but at a rest stop a mile from the top, I decided it didn’t make sense to turn around when we were so close. Upon arriving at the tower, I was glad not to have chickened out. The tower itself was beautiful in its own rustic way, and the view was spectacular. I could see why this was a “must-see” recommendation by the locals.

Another treacherous drive worth taking is to Ski Apache, which sits high in the mountains west of Ruidoso, close to the highest peak in the range, Sierra Blanca. The route there is again steep, narrow and windy, but at least it is paved with guardrails. I did notice, however, that some of those rails were bent and broken, leading me to wonder out loud if anyone went over the edge during ski season, when the roads aren’t as navigable as they are in July.

An hour later, Ben and I found ourselves stuck at the top of the mountain with about 30 other people who had ridden the gondola up but couldn’t take it back down due to a thunderstorm rolling in. On the bumpy ride down the ski slope in a pickup truck driven by one of the Ski Apache staff members, I asked the question. Yes, apparently people do occasionally drive off the edge of the mountain in the winter, but the buses from the Inn of the Mountain Gods always make it up and back safely. Good to know, I thought. If I return here to ski, that’s where I’m staying.

The magic of Ruidoso and beyond

What we loved the most about Ruidoso wasn’t just the cool air or the amazing nature, which included seeing a fawn being born in the wild behind our Airbnb. It was the variety of experiences to be had, both in Ruidoso and beyond. In less than a week, we enjoyed live music, incredible dining, kayaking, hiking, and shopping in and around town. We went to the spa and got a couple’s massage. We could have gone horseback riding and gambled too, if that were our thing.

Being Texans who love to drive and explore, our time also included a trip 30 minutes north to the Smokey Bear Museum in Capitan, and an hour south to the White Sands National Monument. The tiny mountain town of Cloudcroft was another quick stop that made our list of places to go back to.

No doubt about it, an 11-hour road trip is a long drive, one we broke up with overnight stays in Austin and Abilene. But if you’re dying to get out of the Southeast Texas summer heat, the road to Ruidoso is worth taking.

Things to See and Do in Ruidoso

Live music at Sacred Grounds
Green Chile Cheese Burgers at Hall of Flame Burgers
Wild horses, deer and elk sightings around town
Carriage rides through Midtown
Down home cooking at Alto Café
Rocky Mountain Christmas
Mountain Arts gallery
Noisy Water Winery
Inn of the Mountain Gods
Lincoln National Forest
Monjeau Lookout
Grindstone Lake
Ruidoso Downs
Ski Apache

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The Bewitching Wichitas

Mike Yawn — Tue, 30 Nov 2021 19:24:32 +0000

There are mountains in Oklahoma. They aren’t large mountains—Coloradans would probably think of them as “cute”—but they are mountains. Indeed, the state has four distinct mountain ranges: the Arbuckles, the Ozarks, the Ouachitas, and the Wichitas. The latter of these, the Wichita Mountains, are mystical and enchanting, offering a diversity of flora and fauna, numerous recreational activities, and beautiful views, making for a perfect long-weekend visit.

The History

This area has been inhabited for at least a thousand years by the Wichita people, whose full territory covered Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas. Their religion reflected what was important to their lives, with a focus on the land and wildlife surrounding them and, according to one ethnologist, “more than the ordinary consideration of the infinite.” They were semi-nomadic, living in beehive-shaped lodges for most of the year, but following the bison for sustenance in the winter months. By the 19^th century, however, the Wichita people’s largest village was in southwestern Oklahoma, near the mountains that now share their name.

These mountains are geologically unique, having formed some 500 million years ago, in what geology textbooks describe as a “failed continental rift.” If so, it was a magnificent failure, producing a pleasing line of rolling mountains, massive boulders of exposed granite, and an unusual habitat for wildlife and plant life.

Indeed, the area’s history, beauty, and attractiveness to living forms prompted President Teddy Roosevelt to designate some 60,000 acres of this region as a wildlife preserve in 1905, making it the oldest site managed by the Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS).

The Wildlife and the Legends

Today, there is much to manage. It is home to almost 1,000 plant species, including the intriguing gold cobblestone lichen; more than 200 bird species; and 50 species of mammal. Among the mammals is the bison, which once numbered some 20,000,000 in the Great Plains, but by the turn of the 20^th century had vanished entirely from Oklahoma. They were reintroduced in 1907 by—again—President Roosevelt, who suggested that 15 of them be moved from, of all places, the Bronx Zoo. Today, there are almost 700 American buffalo on the Refuge, and they can be seen regularly in most areas of the park.

In fact, in half a dozen visits to the Refuge, we have never not seen them. They are large creatures—the largest land mammals in North America—weighing up to 2,000 pounds. They take up a lot of space, and when we have witnessed them, they moved slowly, when they moved at all, giving us much time to gawk, point, and photograph.

Looks, as they say, can be deceiving. According to the Fish and Wildlife Service, bison are as fast as horses, capable of speeds up to 35 miles an hour and are—I find this almost unbelievable—“extremely agile, able to turn quickly and jump high fences.” You really don’t want to anger a bison.

Helpfully, the FWS notes that you can “judge a bison’s mood by watching its tail,” which, apparently, operates as something of a middle finger, rising in periods of anger.

Wild herds of Texas Longhorns also roam the Refuge, along with many deer and elk. The elk, however, are mostly out of sight, dwelling in less-travelled areas of the Refuge. In September and October, however, the Refuge offers special “Elk Bugling Tours,” allowing visitors to access these areas with the hopes of spotting bull elk engaged in their aggressive competition for cow elk, bugling all the while.

Perhaps the most entertaining animal to observe on the Refuge is the prairie dog. With more 20,000 acres of mixed grass prairie, these creatures have their choice of homesites. Early travelers described miles of prairie dog villages, and from the vestiges visible today, such reports are credible. It is, perhaps, damning with faint praise to call these animals the cutest among the order rodentia, but they really are entertaining to watch, and children will enjoy seeing them sun themselves, dine on grass, or occasionally frolic with friends.

The prairie, of course, is also a birders’ haven. There are the horned grebe, several species of woodpecker, and the endangered and elusive black-capped vireo. Also living in the Refuge are numerous birds of prey: merlins, kestrels, and several species of hawk—including northern harriers, which can be seen swooping down on other birds, field mice, and even prairie dogs.

Such sights may have given rise to the legend of Piamempits, who, according to the rich and mystical lore of Wichita elders, was a “giant cannibal owl.” This creature lived in a cave in the Wichita Mountains, but he prowled at night, searching for and devouring naughty children while they slept. If this wasn’t sufficient to keep children in line, there were stories of Teihiihan, a “race of cannibal dwarves,” who had sharp teeth, one eye, and a penchant for kidnapping small children.

Of course, we may have been overly sensitive to such tales, inasmuch as our first visit to the Wichitas corresponded not only with Halloween, but also with a full moon. We lingered in the Refuge after sunset, and as this Full Hunter’s Moon arose behind a veil of clouds, we tried to dwell more on the Wichita people’s moon deity, Bright Shining Woman—a generally beneficent deity and Mother of the Universe—and less on Piamempits and Teihiihan.

The Mountains

In absolute terms, the elevation levels of the Wichita Mountains are modest. Even the highest mountain peaks in the range reach only about 2,500 feet above sea level. But this is Oklahoma, which is otherwise largely flat, and even small elevations allow for expansive views across the entire southwestern part of the state. And, this being Oklahoma, even the same views are altered throughout the day, as weather events come and go.

These views are best reached by hiking, although the summit of Mt. Scott, the second highest peak in the Refuge, can be reached by car. Mt. Scott offers 360-degree views of the Refuge; nearby communities; and a few of the Refuge’s 13 lakes, some of which can take on a mystical quality during periods of fog or heavy weather.

One of these, the Jed Johnson Lake, is particularly picturesque. The Jed Johnson Tower, constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1941, is 60 feet tall, and was formerly used as a fire watch tower. Because of structural issues, it is no longer open to the public, but it is visible from many spots in the park and is accessible via a two-mile hike.

Elk Mountain Trail is also recommended, offering wonderful views of the Refuge and numerous opportunities for wildlife spotting, all while intersecting numerous water features. Our most recommended hike, however, is Little Baldy Trail, which offers almost perfect views at sunset, providing a lot of punch for a round-trip less than two miles in length.

A Holy City

The Wichita Mountains, where tales of Piamempit and Teihiihan were once passed around campfires and in beehive-shaped grass lodges, might seem like an unlikely spot to build a simulated Jerusalem. But Native Americans are not the only people to find a religious quality to the mountains and its inhabitants.

Reverend Anthony Mark Wallock began offering sunrise Easter services in the Mountains in 1927. The annual service proved popular, and a “Passion Play” was added. By the mid-1930s, during the height of the New Deal, the federal government provided a grant to build a Holy City. The Works Progress Administration undertook the construction, and using locally quarried cobblestone, workers built key landmarks from Jesus’s life: Herod’s Court, Mary’s Garden, a Lord’s Supper building, Pilate’s Judgment Hall, the Gateway to Jerusalem, and even a Golgotha.

Nearly 90 years later, the structures still stand—and the Easter pageant is still performed, making it one of the longest-running annual Passion Play performances in the country.

The Magic of the Wichitas

This enchanting land, marked by granite mountainous outcroppings, rolling hills, and diverse wildlife, is a natural wonder. It is no wonder, then, that the people who have encountered it have projected their own spiritual beliefs on the land. From the terrors of the Teihiihan to the spiritual rebirth and renewal associated with Easter, the Mountains, the wildlife, and the elements provide a rich land for “more than an ordinary consideration of the infinite.”

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South Dakota- Monuments & Memories

Karen Altom — Wed, 01 Sep 2021 14:39:37 +0000

It’s been on our bucket list for more than a decade, so when our friends Foy and Mitzi Mills called and asked if we would like to travel with them to South Dakota, it took about 10 seconds for me to respond, “Absolutely!” (Fortunately, Wes is always agreeable to my travel whims.) Foy wanted to see the western part of South Dakota, and since it was his birthday week (and it was on our bucket list), we were thrilled to join in.

The western region of South Dakota has one unique feature after another. As you travel, the midwestern farm and grasslands morph from rolling hills and majestic granite spires to tree-covered summits and uncommon stone outcroppings. The Black Hills are filled with a rich history, tracing back to the Native American people who named the Hills “Paha Sapa” for the ponderosa pines that abound.

We chose to stay in Rapid City, South Dakota and make that our base as we roamed the surrounding hills. The area has one of the largest concentrations of national parks, monuments, and caves in the Midwest. Along with the natural beauty that abounds, there are a multitude of tourist spots and typical vacation activities for all ages. There are too many things to write about in the space allowed, but here are some of the highlights of our trip.

MOUNT RUSHMORE

About 30 minutes from Rapid City is one particular Black Hill you’ve seen a “million times.” Hands down, Mount Rushmore is one of the most recognizable landmarks in the United States and one of America’s most visited national monuments. Located near Keystone, South Dakota, the monument sculpted by Gutzon Borglum features the massive carved faces of American Presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln. This national memorial is visited by more than two million people every year who gain appreciation for this feat of engineering. Although it took 14 years to carve, scientists predict Mount Rushmore will endure – projecting a lifespan at about 7 million years! Even though we had seen it “a million times,” it was still awe-inspiring to be there in person.

THE BLACK HILLS

The Black Hills are not black. The areas covered in pines are certainly dark, and if you see them from afar, they can give you that impression–because of the shadows the trees cast upon the stone. Black or not, they are beautiful and, depending on the time of day, can range from granite gray to shades of orange, brown, gold, and even purple. At every time of day, they are beautiful no matter the color.

THE BADLANDS

We expected the Badlands to be interesting, but not majestic. They are both. The forests of the Black Hills quickly transform into a landscape left desolate by water and wind. South Dakota’s Badlands are a testament to the power of nature. Thanks to the Badlands Loop State Scenic Byway, the majesty of the Badlands can be experienced from your vehicle. The two-lane road runs about 40 miles and there are plenty of scenic overlooks and places to stop for photos as you wind through ancient rock formations, cliffs, and colorful spires. There are also several trailheads to choose from if you brought your hiking boots.

WALL DRUG

Whether coming or going to the Badlands, take the Wall, South Dakota exit on I-90 for a stop at Wall Drug, the ultimate roadside attraction at 76,000 square feet. A unique adventure in and of itself, Wall Drug is a piece of South Dakota history known for its famous homemade donuts, rolls, pie and ice cream, legendary hot beef sandwiches with mashed potatoes and homemade gravy, buffalo burgers, and 5-cent coffee. The store opened in 1931 with the promise of free ice water for thirsty travelers (which they still provide), along with the largest privately-owned Western and illustration art collections in the country. Nowadays the city of Wall, home to 800 year-round residents, attracts more than 2 million visitors each year thanks to Wall Drug, a piece of South Dakota history. And yes, the donuts are delicious.

THE CRAZY HORSE MEMORIAL

Under construction since 1948, the Crazy Horse Memorial is the world’s largest mountain carving. Located about 17 miles from Mount Rushmore, the memorial features the Oglala Lakota leader, and when complete, will be 563 feet tall, the tallest sculpture in the world. The stated mission of the memorial is to protect and preserve the culture, tradition, and living heritage of the North American Indians. The campus includes the mountain carving, the Indian University of North America, the Native American Educational and Cultural Center, and the Indian Museum of North America. Make some time to enjoy the inspiration to “never forget your dreams,” along with lessons in historical and contemporary Native culture set amidst the scenic beauty of the Black Hills.

CUSTER STATE PARK

Tucked in the Black Hills, not far from Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial, is Custer State Park. The largest state park in South Dakota, it encompasses 71,000 acres of ever-changing topography. From rolling prairies to the granite spires the Black Hills are known for, scenic drives and the wildlife are the big draw when visitors do not have days to stay and explore the park.

The Wildlife Loop Road travels through 18 miles of grasslands and hills where a multitude of species live and are available to see in their natural habitat, including free range bison. A herd of bighorn sheep backed up traffic for a while as they crossed the road and stopped to say hello. Keep your eyes peeled for prairie dog towns as these busy mammals pop up and are often as interested in you as you are in them. The Annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup happens each fall and this year is scheduled for September 23-25, with the remaining portion of the herd scheduled to be worked in October.

Another popular drive within the park is the narrow, windy 14-mile road called Needles Highway. When traveling the highway, visitors will pass the beautiful Sylvan Lake as well as a unique rock formation called the Needle’s Eye, which was named for the opening created by wind, rain, freezing, and thawing. Needles Highway is closed in the winter months due to the narrow road, so plan your visit during the other three seasons.

SMACK DAB IN THE MIDDLE

Belle Fourche, South Dakota is federally recognized as the geographic center of the United States. Although the actual center lies somewhat north of the town on private property, there is a marker you can stand on adjacent to the Tri-State Museum, making a good photo opportunity. Also on the Museum grounds are the flags of all 50 states. We are always happy to see our own Lone Star!

STILL IN THE BLACK HILLS…AND WORTH THE TRIP

Across the Wyoming/South Dakota state line, about an hour west of Spearfish, rising 1,267 feet above the Belle Fourche River, is Devils Tower National Monument. Devils Tower boasts one of the Earth’s most impressive geological features and was designated as America’s first national monument in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt.

A sacred place to more than 24 Native American tribes, the Tower is also known as Bear Lodge. Many tribes today still utilize the park for traditional ceremonies and learning about the differing cultural perspectives in very interesting. As you drive up to the tower, you will be offered changing views as you approach. Observing it from all angles is necessary to truly “see” the Tower.

Devils Tower boasts a climbing history that dates back to 1893, when it was first climbed by two local ranchers using a homemade wooden ladder. Climbers from all over the world consider Devils Tower to be a unique and premier climbing area. Currently, about 5,000-6,000 visiting climbers ascend Devils Tower each year.

If you visit Devils Tower, take note of the restroom facilities (you can then thank me later). The facilities nearest the bookstore are what Texans expect in a public restroom (namely, toilets that flush and air conditioning). However, if you opt for the facilities nearest the trailhead, expect otherwise. Since these are closest to the parking lot, it is easy to assume these are the “main” facilities. They are not. They are glorified outhouses. They are a hole in the ground with a building around them and a semblance of our own porcelain gems. You have been warned.

Devils Tower National Monument truly boasts one of Earth’s most impressive geological features. Spend a day at the monument hiking around the Tower or exploring lesser-known areas of the park but as Mitzi and I say, beware of Hell’s bathrooms.

SO MUCH MORE…

Rapid City, known as the City of Presidents, was an excellent place to use as our hub. Downtown Rapid City boasts a series of life-size bronze statues of our nation’s past presidents along the city’s streets and sidewalks. Whether you’re enjoying downtown shopping, dining, or other attractions, you can experience this walking tour free of charge.

We literally have not scratched the stone’s surface of things to do in western South Dakota. There are so many more towns to explore like Keystone, Deadwood, Sturgis, and more. Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave National Monument, two of the longest cave systems in the world, are also part of this geographic treasure.

Whatever choices you make, you will be sure to discover a vacation that captures the spirt of America perfect for a family, a couple, or a group of friends. You’ll make memories that will last a lifetime…and that’s just the beginning.

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Arizona National Parks

Ruth Fields — Wed, 30 Jun 2021 13:57:45 +0000

It all started when our middle kid Hunter moved to Phoenix. My husband Charlie and I had never visited Arizona, and we promptly scheduled a trip. We soon learned the 48^th state, with its rugged beauty, rich history, and indescribable Arizona-ness, cannot be properly experienced in one trip. So, we went again. And again. Arizona is the home of three national parks—Saguaro, Petrified Forest and Grand Canyon—as well as 21 historic sites, monuments, memorials, and recreation areas administered by the National Park Service (NPS). Each is worthy of a visit!

Saguaro National Park

For many, the mention of the American West prompts a mental image of the stately, tree-sized saguaro, which means “giant cactus” in Spanish. There is a mind-boggling array of these giants in Saguaro National Park, located in southern Arizona near Tucson. Saguaro National Park is actually two parks for the price of one. The Tucson Mountain District (West) and the Rincon Mountain District (East) are separated by about 30 miles. Each has its own visitor center and gift shop (I know this because I have a thriving collection of national park coffee mugs.).

If time doesn’t allow excursions to both sides of the park, don’t worry–both sides are spectacular. While the western section has a denser cactus population and is known for memorable sunsets, the eastern section is significantly larger, with more miles of hiking trails. It is noted for its older, larger saguaros. On both sides of the park, visitors can experience dramatic views of mountains and saguaros from their vehicles, on bicycles, or on foot.

Although a few strays can be found elsewhere, saguaros grow almost exclusively in the Sonoran Desert of Arizona and Mexico, but they grow there abundantly. It is a surprisingly slow-growing species: the saguaro’s iconic arms don’t usually appear until a cactus is about 75 years old. Given ideal conditions, a saguaro might live 150-200 years and can grow to a height of over 40 feet. (Think three- or four-story building.) Many saguaros have holes where woodpeckers have hollowed out nesting spaces; when they abandon their homesteads, other birds (including owls) become tenants. In the spring, the saguaro blossoms sensationally, and its flower, which is white with a yellow center, is the state flower of Arizona. In the summer, saguaros produce red fruit that is a source of food for insects, birds, bats, reptiles, and small mammals. Saguaro fruit was also a traditional food for Native Americans, who harvested it with poles made from the spines of dead saguaros.

Petrified Forest National Park

I-40 bisects Petrified Forest National Park a little more than 100 miles east of Flagstaff in northern Arizona, and the NPS’s website suggests stopping at the park to take a break from traveling; however, to do justice to the many wonders found within Petrified Forest, visitors could easily spend a full day. Much of the park can be seen from vehicles, although there are short walks to viewing areas and a few hikes of one mile or less that offer closer observation.

The visitor center and gift shop are located north of I-40, while most of the attractions are on the south side. As visitors travel southward, they are treated to many interesting spectacles. Being a writer, I was captivated by the sound of Newspaper Rock, which turned out to be a boulder covered with ancient petroglyphs. (Because of the danger of defacement, the rock isn’t accessible by foot, so bring binoculars or use the built-in binos available at the overlook to get an up-close look at the prehistoric artwork.) At other stops along the way, visitors can see the ruins of ancient pueblos, including one made of petrified wood. The Petrified Forest is located within Arizona’s famed Painted Desert, and parts of the park have otherworldly views of mountains striped with gray, lavender, blue, and maroon.

Much of the petrified wood in the park is located toward the southern end, and its sheer abundance is only equaled by the dazzling array of colors, including green, gold, and rust (and even Aggie maroon and Longhorn orange). Some of the pieces have embedded crystals. At one stop, a short walk takes visitors to a 110-foot, naturally-formed bridge made of a petrified tree. (The NPS added supports in the early 1900s to keep it intact for visitors.) At one of the southernmost points of the park, a one-third mile loop takes visitors through a forest of giant petrified logs in splendid color.

It is illegal to remove artifacts from national parks, but never fear–petrified wood souvenirs are available in the park’s gift shop, and there are nearby stores that sell chunks of petrified wood, as well as art, jewelry, and even furniture made from petrified wood.

Grand Canyon National Park

In the mid-1800s, the area now known as the Grand Canyon was a blank void on maps of America and was often called the “Great Unknown.” It was known, however, that the Colorado River ran through the area, and in 1857, Army First Lieutenant Joseph Christmas Ives embarked on a reconnaissance mission—the first since Spanish explorers abandoned the area in 1540. Ives began his journey on a steamboat; when it crashed, he continued in a skiff and then on foot. He admired the breathtaking vastness of the canyon, calling it “astounding” and “profound.”

Ives could not, however, properly envision the future of the Grand Canyon. He wrote: “The region is, of course, altogether valueless. It can be approached only from the south, and after entering it there is nothing to do but leave. Ours has been the first, and will doubtless be the last, party of whites to visit this profitless locality. It seems intended by nature that the Colorado River, along the greater portion of its lonely and majestic way, shall be forever unvisited and undisturbed.”

In nearly-comical contrast to Ives’s prediction, the canyon has been visited by countless Americans, as well as people from across the globe. In 2019 alone, about six million people visited the Grand Canyon, making it the second-most visited of the nation’s 63 national parks.

Grand Canyon National Park encompasses 1904 square miles—more than the state of Rhode Island—and 277 miles of the Colorado River. On average, it is one mile from the rim of the canyon to the river below, and the average distance from rim to rim is 10 miles. Its vast beauty, which showcases the phenomenal power of nature, is awe-inspiring. Many people hike along the rim; others brave seemingly-endless switchbacks to hike into the canyon itself, and some intrepid souls obtain permits and hike from “rim to rim.” Most people, however, utilize the efficient shuttle bus system that links scenic overlooks and points of interest along the canyon rim.

The Grand Canyon is one of the most popular and incredible national parks, but it is also the deadliest. When I visited the Grand Canyon in 2019, I was dismayed when I saw people posing for daring photographs—including leaps and handstands on precipitous ledges—with little regard for safety. Several people die each year from falling into the canyon, especially while taking photographs. Please stay away from unprotected ledges and resist the temptation to take risky selfies. As the saying goes, “Safety is no accident.”

America the Beautiful

Those who plan to visit several NPS sites might want to consider an America the Beautiful pass. For $80 ($20 for people age 62 and up), pass holders gain admittance to national parks and other NPS sites for one year. Lifetime passes are also available. One pass admits all the people in a vehicle to parks that charge by the vehicle, and admits four adults to parks that charge per person. Since Veterans Day 2020, admission to national parks is free for active-duty military, veterans, and Gold Star Families. For more information, visit www.nps.gov.

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Peridido Key

Linda W. Perkins — Wed, 30 Sep 2020 05:15:11 +0000

Getting there and staying there

The townhouse where we stayed was an ideal spot for having fun while avoiding crowds. Located at Innerarity Point, just two miles north of Perdido Key Beach, we knew we were there when there was water on both sides of the road. Situated directly on Perdido Bay, the rows of white-trimmed pastel yellow, blue and aquamarine green buildings were a cheery sight for us, road-weary travelers. Upon arrival, it took about five seconds for the two teenagers with us – our daughter and her friend – to jump out of the truck and over to the private beach directly behind the carport.

On the wall of the carport were two brightly colored kayaks, ready for a paddle, and a portable grill was set up by a picnic table that overlooked the water. Upstairs, there was a full kitchen so we could cook or order take-out (a pandemic favorite), and two balconies – one off the living area and one off the master bedroom – were ready for some post-beach relaxing and for viewing some of the most spectacular sunrises we had ever seen. Had we been forced to quarantine there, we would have been happy as pie!

Fortunately, we were only kept indoors on one day of the trip. We were not looking for nightlife or packed tour boats – although there was plenty of that if we were to go another time when health risks weren’t a concern – there is a lot to do in and around the Perdido Key area, and we didn’t want to miss out.

Perdido Key Beach

When we were doing our vacation research, it looked like Perdido Key had one beach. In fact, it has several: the public beach, Perdido Key State Park, and Gulf Islands National Seashore – Perdido Key Area.

The public beach is where we started. There are several points along Perdido Key Drive (292) where signs pointing to Public Beach Access peek out between high rise condominiums. Some will lead to narrow little stretches of beachfront

hemmed in by roped off sections of beachfront labeled as private property for condo owners and renters only. Other sections of the beach are wider and accommodate vendors such as parasailing companies that will take you out into the ocean for a one-hour trip that will include launching you high up in the air, holding you up by a parachute tethered to a speedboat.

The Perdido Key State Park encompasses 1.4 miles of beach and two boardwalks that allow beach access while protecting dunes from heavy foot traffic. Its entrance is on the north side of Perdido Key Drive, and it not only provides access to Gulf-side beachfront but also the beach that faces inland towards Ono Island, Alabama.

By far, the longest stretch of beach (and the least crowded section of sand you will find in Perdido Key) is at the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Unlike the public beach, which is free, and the state park, which charges a minimal fee for entrance, getting into the Gulf Islands

National Seashore will cost you a pretty penny: $25 for a carload of up to six people, or $15 for one pedestrian entering on foot. That said, the entrance fee covers a full week of access, and it is well worth it.

Johnson Beach, the main swimming area, is named after Rosamond Johnson, the first soldier from Escambia County, Florida to die in the Korean War. He died a hero after pulling two members of his unit to safety and was awarded the Purple Heart posthumously. There is an American flag flying and a plaque placed in his honor in front of the pavilion where the picnic area, restrooms, and showers are located.

Looking out to the east from Johnson Beach, you can see the condos on Perdido Key in the distance. Turn west, and it looks like the seashore goes on forever. In fact, the road past Johnson Beach only goes so far. Much of the east end of Perdido Key is a nature sanctuary. It is not uncommon to see a great blue heron standing along the seashore, watching the waves come in from the Gulf of Mexico, or to see tiny ghost crabs scuttling back and forth across the road between the ocean and Big Lagoon. Signs along the boardwalk remind visitors to stay off the dunes in order to protect the nesting areas of birds and sea turtles.

Big Lagoon

Big Lagoon, which sits between Perdido Key and the mainland, is a recreation area in itself. Big Lagoon State Park is a popular spot for hiking, camping, boating, and birding. While some facilities at the park are closed due to COVID-19, the boat ramp, trails, canoe/kayak launch, the boardwalk, and the playground are still open. Canoe and kayak rentals were available while we were there.

Rather than going to the state park, we decided to head over to Big Lagoon Jet Ski Rentals for some action-oriented fun. After watching a short safety and operations video to familiarize ourselves with the jet skis, we jumped on board some snazzy Sea-Doos and took off across the lagoon. At one point, the girls spotted dolphins swimming nearby, while we marveled at seeing the Blue Angels fly-by overhead at fighter-jet speeds.

Orange Beach

Head east on Perdido Key Drive and you will run right over the Florida-Alabama state line. There you will find the legendary Flora-Bama, a restaurant and beach bar known primarily for its live entertainment. As we were seeking to stay away from crowds, we didn’t stop by there or some of the other highly rated restaurants in the area for which social distancing wasn’t a priority. Being safe doesn’t mean you have to miss out, though.

The Wharf, an entertainment district in Orange Beach, Alabama, was all over the idea of putting fun and safety together. We visited a number of their boutiques, gift shops, restaurants and coffee shops, all of which had hand sanitizing stations at the door and implemented social distancing measures. While we didn’t take a ride in their beautiful ferris wheel, we did stay for a musical laser light show that was held after dark in the common area.

Another gem we found in Orange Beach was Brick & Spoon. We chose it because it was in a cute gray building and there weren’t too many cars in the parking lot. If we return to the area, we will go back for the food, though! A well-known brunch spot, Brick & Spoon is only open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. It is famous for its Bloody Marys, which can be customized nine ways from Sunday, and Southern Living ranked it as one of the top breakfast joints in the South, describing it as “allergic to boring breakfasts.” Everything we had, from avocado toast to a burger and fries, was top-notch delicious.

Pensacola

Technically, Innerarity Point is in Pensacola. The address is all it has in common with one of Florida’s most famous beaches, though. It is a solid 30 minutes to drive over to downtown Pensacola, and then another 10 minutes down the Pensacola Beach. On the way there

is Pensacola Naval Air Station, home of the Blue Angels. We didn’t realize until we arrived that the Pensacola Light House and Maritime Museum is on the base itself. Sadly, due to the pandemic, the base was closed to visitors and so we did not get to see the lighthouse. The officer who met us at the gate told us the lighthouse could be seen from Fort Pickens, however, which is on the western end of Pensacola Beach. Fort Pickens is part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, so your entrance ticket from Perdido Bay will get you into the fort as well.

There is no doubt that Pensacola Beach has its appeal, especially for teens like the ones we had with us. While not any whiter, its strip of sand along the ocean is wider than Perdido Key. Pensacola Beach also has its own “city center,” with well-known national chain restaurants, hotels, and condos, as well as kids’ entertainment parks for go-karting and mini-golf. It was much more difficult to stay socially distanced in the more crowded area, however; and while the girls were having fun flirting with boys and taking selfies on the beach behind Ron Jon Surf Shop, we parents were ready to get back to our quiet private beach on Perdido Bay.

At the end of the day, we got exactly what we were looking for in Perdido Key: a beautiful place to get away to and “chillax” away from big crowds, while still serving as a jumping-off spot for lots of fun and as much action as we did or didn’t want in nearby Orange Beach and Pensacola. For a perfect pandemic family holiday, this was definitely it.

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