Millions of people travel every year to the far northwest corner of Wyoming to visit two of America’s most popular national parks. Many of them come from distant parts of the world. In May, my husband and I succumbed to wanderlust and set off to see Yellowstone and Grand Teton for ourselves.
When geologist Ferdinand Vandeveer Hayden’s team returned from their expedition of the Yellowstone region in 1871, they presented their findings—including photographs and paintings of stunning hydrothermal activity—to a fascinated U.S. Congress. On March 1, 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant signed the Yellowstone National Park Protection Act into law. This made Yellowstone the first national park in the world and set a global example of ecological preservation.
Yellowstone is one of America’s largest national parks, but before our visit, we didn’t fully grasp its vastness. Yellowstone comprises about 3,472 square miles—roughly the size of Delaware and Rhode Island combined. (Most of the park is in Wyoming, but parts extend into Montana and Idaho.) It takes time to explore Yellowstone, but fortunately, we met a friendly park volunteer who helped us get the most out of our allotted days.
Yellowstone’s 142-mile Grand Loop Road resembles a figure eight. Nine villages (most with lodging, restaurants, gift shops, and visitor information centers) are situated along this scenic route. Yellowstone is diverse, and each village highlights the area’s main attractions. For example, Canyon Village is near the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone; Lake Village is on the bank of Yellowstone Lake (which, at approximately 136 square miles, is the largest high-altitude freshwater lake in North America). Mammoth Hot Springs has unique hydrothermal formations and is the site of historic Fort Yellowstone, where the U.S. Army stationed soldiers from 1886 until 1918 to discourage poachers, squatters, and vandals.
Old Faithful Village has several lodges that surround the famous geyser, including Old Faithful Inn, which was built in 1903 through 1904 with local logs and stones. The inn has a seven-story lobby and is considered the largest log structure in the world. It is a National Historic Landmark. At the top is the Crow’s Nest, where musicians once played for guests below. It was closed after a strong 1959 earthquake damaged some of the support timbers, but the bottom two floors are open to the public.
Old Faithful is perhaps the best-known attraction at Yellowstone, but contrary to popular belief, it is not entirely punctual; furthermore, earthquakes over the years have made eruptions less frequent. Eruptions occur approximately every 90 minutes, but can be as much as two hours apart. Park staffers note the duration of each eruption, which helps them predict the next one, give or take about 12 minutes. After eruptions, spectators applaud.
There are more than 500 geysers in the park, which is more than half the world’s total. In fact, thanks to an ancient supervolcano, Yellowstone boasts the most extensive collection of hydrothermal features in the world, numbering more than 10,000. Hot springs—such as the intensely vibrant Grand Prismatic Spring—are strangely colorful because of microorganisms that thrive in heat. Fumaroles, which spew steam into the air from small holes in the earth, are also common.
Hydrothermal features, however, are not Yellowstone’s only claim to fame. The mountains and lush valleys are serene, and the rivers that meander through the park create impressive waterfalls. Some are only a short walk from main roads. The largest and most famous is the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River, which roars 308 feet to the floor of the yellow and orange Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. We braved the hike to the brink, which drops 600 feet in just 3/8ths of a mile. My husband predicted that the hike would be “all sizzle and no steak,” but conceded that the view was a “16-ounce ribeye” and worth the steep climb back to the trailhead. Nathaniel P. Langford, an early explorer, noted the waterfall’s grandeur, as well as his fear of its power, in his 1873 report: “I thought how utterly impossible it would be to describe to another the sensations inspired by such a presence. . . I felt as never before my entire dependence upon that Almighty Power who had wrought these wonders.”
Yellowstone is also known for an abundance of wildlife. Grizzly bears inhabit the park, as does a large, thriving black bear population. (Bear spray is a must!) Elk are often spotted, although moose sightings are less common. The park is also home to wolves, coyotes, pronghorns, ospreys, bald eagles and many other species.
And bison. Poachers once nearly eliminated them altogether, but after decades of conservation, Yellowstone now has the nation’s largest free-roaming population of wild bison on public lands. Thousands of bison roam the hillsides and valleys; some even cross roads. The park has two herds of bison—one in Lamar Valley in the northeast sector, and one in Hayden Valley, in the central part. These valleys are great places to watch for other wildlife, too. In addition to countless bison, we saw bears, elk, pronghorn, osprey, harlequin ducks and Canada geese.
There are many other things to see and do at Yellowstone. Some visitors explore the intriguing sights along the main roads, where they can cross the Continental Divide three times. The park also attracts hikers, campers, wildlife photographers, snowmobilers and fishermen. (To fish, obtain a permit at recreation.gov.)
Yellowstone does not currently require reservations, so be prepared for crowds. In 2025, Yellowstone recorded more than 4.7 million visits. Parking lots can fill quickly, and traffic sometimes comes to a complete stop at “bear jams” when visitors spot wildlife. To avoid the rush, consider visiting during spring or autumn, although some park roads may be closed. It also helps to go early in the day. Texas visitors have an advantage: because we are accustomed to Central Time, it’s easier for us to arrive before roads become congested.
Adjacent to Yellowstone on its south side, Grand Teton National Park is a separate park that requires its own entrance fee. At about 484 square miles, it is only about one-seventh the size of Yellowstone, but it packs a big punch. The jagged Teton Mountains rise abruptly and majestically nearly 7,000 feet from the valley of Jackson Hole and overlook all areas of the park. Grand Teton, the tallest peak and the park’s namesake, is 13,775 feet above sea level.
The centerpiece of the park is the 1,191-acre Jenny Lake, which was formed by glaciers. It was named for Jenny Leigh, a Shoshone woman who was the wife of an English trapper and a guide for the 1872 expedition of the area. Some visitors hike around the lake (possibly spotting moose along the way), while others take a boat shuttle across to visit Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. Jackson Lake, in the northern reaches of the park, is much larger, but Jenny Lake remains one of the most-visited and most-photographed attractions in Grand Teton. Meanwhile, photographers also flock to Morman Row, which is known for a handful of early-20th century log homes and two quaint barns built by early settlers.
Like Yellowstone, Grand Teton has scenic roads that take visitors to views of incredible beauty. The park is also known for its wildlife. Besides a large moose population, there are bison, elk, grizzly and black bears, pronghorns, bald eagles, yellow-bellied marmots, beavers and river otters.
some ways in which this hobby is beneficial:
It isn’t particularly easy to get from Texas to Yellowstone and Grand Teton. A road trip takes about 24 hours. Flights to nearby cities require connections and can be expensive; those who take non-stop flights to international hubs spend significant time on the road after landing. Most people, however, seem to think these parks are worth the effort. We agree.
For more information, visit nps.gov/yell and nps.gov/grte.
